Cambodia

6 records, one written. Song Saa holds two islets joined by a footbridge over their own marine reserve: Koh Ouen carries everything, Koh Bong is left almost untouched, and crossing from one half of the property to the other means passing over water nobody may fish or anchor in.

The order of events is the country's lesson. Melita Koulmandas found the islands in 2006 with their reefs in decline and their beaches under rubbish, bought them, worked with the neighbouring communities on what became Cambodia's first marine protected area, and opened the hotel in 2012 to pay for it. Protection first, hotel second.

Five records unread, most of them around Siem Reap, where the question will be a garden estate beside a temple town rather than an island.